Olive Oil, Morocco's Liquid Gold

I love olive oil.  Especially genuine olive oil.  Oh yeah, I like what I can find in the grocery store here in South Carolina, but the oil I found in Tunisia and Morocco was some of the BEST olive oil I've ever tasted!  You see, olives are one of Morocco's cash crops.  There are US initiatives helping the Moroccans increase plantings of olive trees, therefore, increasing olive oil production.  The olives you eat in Morocco are really some of the best in the world, surpassing Greek and Italian olives by far.  But that's just my opinion, for what it's worth.



Olives and preserved lemons on display in the Meknes medina



But I digress...

One of my absolute favorite places to visit in Morocco was the Roman ruins of Volubilis,

(Vo-lu-bil-is) pronounced just like it's spelled.  Located in an area where olive trees, both young saplings and trees of hundreds of years, grow together in harmony along the rolling hills.  Spring time is the best time to visit this area after the daunting winter rains have ended and everything is a beautiful fresh new shade of green.  So green it's breathtaking!

the rolling green hills of Morocco

in the vicinity of Volubilis, old olive trees line the road

magnificent view of the fertile valley, olive trees in the distance

My first visit to Volubilis was with my sister, Suanne.  I had arranged for a guide to meet us at the entrance to the ruins.  Mostapha is a self-taught English speaker, who explains the history, discovery and rebuilding of the site.  A fascinating tale, and a fabulous opportunity for incredible photos.

the Triumphal Arch of the site

The main street of Volubilis

Anyway...I digress again...

Mostapha isn't only a great tour guide but an amazing host!  Midway through our tour of Volubilis, he asked what our plans were for lunch.  We told him we really didn't have any plans, at which he immediately pulled out his phone to call his wife to see if she was fixing lunch that day.  The answer was, yes, at which he proceeded to convince us to come home with him for a wonderful Friday couscous meal!  What he then proceeded to tell us was that his wife was also at home caring for their 4-day old baby!!!!!!  My sister and I politely insisted that his generosity was certainly putting his wife in a difficult situation as she was still recovering from birth.  "Moosh-keela" (no problem), he replied!  So off we go to his humble abode, where his wife has prepared an amazing meal of couscous, which we all ate from the one serving dish (a typical custom) with our own spoon.  There was roasted chicken and typical Moroccan vegetables cooked with the couscous.  Upon eating our fill (couscous has a way of expanding once in your stomach!), and feeling miserably full, we were introduced to the newest member of Mostafa's family.  The little guy was sleeping peacefully, and was proudly handed to us as we ooh'd and ahh'd over him.  Before we knew it, another course had been brought out for us to enjoy.  This time a variety of Moroccan pastries and delectable, hot mint tea.  By the time our lunch was complete, we were feeling the need to move on before we couldn't move at all after eating so much.  Mostapha then insisted that he also show us through his hometown of Moulay Idriss.  A lovely historic town literally built into the mountain.  When our day was ended, and time for my sister and I to return to Rabat, the discussion of how much to pay Mostapha commenced.  We literally spent the day with this man AND were provided a delightful authentic meal in his home.  We agreed on what we felt was appropriate, which was probably far more than what he would have gotten from the typical tourist.  However, we felt it was money well-spent for the experience.

Ready for the shared bowl of couscous with our gracious hostess

sweet dates, pastries, fouf, and mint tea; all local specialties

the new parents and their little bundle

After that initial visit to Volubilis, I returned numerous times with large and small groups.  I also recommended visits to many other individuals, while suggesting they hire Mostapha as a guide.  Mostapha returned his gratitude by giving or sending me fresh pressed olive oil from his father's olive grove.  And let me tell you....it is some of the best olive oil you will ever taste!

Well, I am down to my final bottle of Mostapha's olive oil.  I haven't even opened it yet.  I'm saving it for a dish that won't be perfect unless it's made with perfect olive oil!  So here's to whatever that dish may be, here's to Volubilis, but especially here's to Mostapha, one of my favorite memories of Morocco!

my final bottle of Liquid Gold