Closed Windows

While we're on the topic of windows, I'd like to show you another type of fascinating window.  It exists in countries throughout the Middle East and North Africa, but is most prevalent in Tunisia.

Like other North African countries, Tunisians speak two languages, Arabic and French.  In French these windows are called mucharabier (ch pronounced sh).  The Arabic word is mutated from the Spanish 'galleria' or gallery, but often comes out sounding like 'gonorrhea'. *   I think I'll stick with the English translation, 'enclosed window'. 

*Many thanks to M and K Ayachi in Tunisia,  for helping me remember the proper terms and spellings of these French and Arabic words.

While these windows are architecturally popular and seen in many different countries, I expect they are being used less and less for the purpose they were intended.  In the muslim culture, it is forbidden for females to have face to face contact with males outside the immediate family.  Women are to cover their faces when in public and to never show their faces to men.  The mucharabier allowed young women to "see" men, or their suitors, while peering at them through the designs in the wood, without offending themselves or bringing shame to the family.  And while our modern world has progressed in so many areas, there are still conservative families, and countries, that continue to practice the covering of women. 

It is not unusual in downtown Tunis, to see women walking together, one of them dressed and covered in the typical Tunisian way, while the other is dressed in the latest Western fashions, with beautifully coifed hair and perfectly applied makeup.  The variance rests solely on the woman's family, and her own personal choices.



photo from google images

In our modern world, with changes coming at break neck speeds, I respect the conservative muslims who continue to practice this age old tradition.  When we lived in Tunisia I found all this very intriguing, and tried to imagine myself as a teenager, living a "covered" life...........  I couldn't even begin to fathom what it would be like.  Check out my non-muslim friend's post on her blog about the day she dressed in a full burka and went out in Morocco with a non-covered friend here.

So with deep respect, I dedicate this post to all my muslim friends, covered or not.

Open Windows

While in Tunisia, I became quite enchanted with the fer forgeron (iron maker's) beautiful wrought iron grates that were installed over the windows of the homes and businesses.  Some of these designs were quite intricate, while others very simple, while others were downright....romantic! Scrolls of fleur de lis, delicate hearts, one design was a circle of hearts that also made the shape of a star!



can you find the hearts whose points make up a star?



And while this is an age old craft in Tunisia, it is still flourishing in today's modern world and the craft is much the same as it was hundreds of years ago.

the most common design, seen throughout the country

Toward the end of our time in this small country, a large crafts bazaar was being held at a covention center in Tunis.  Everything from paintings, to rugs, to woodwork, to antiques was on offer at the many booths set up for the vendors.  I would have been crazy not to go!  In fact, I think I went 3 or 4 times, each time walking away with a huge smile on my face and treasures in my hands!

 

The first day I visited the bazaar, I walked through the entire venue to check out what was available.  I noticed one gentleman's booth that contained some lovely slate artwork and various vintage/antique items such as farm equipment, sheep shears, and some framed, iron grate blue windows.  The windows were hanging in the corners of his booth, and were certainly not the focus of his booth, leaving one to think they were merely there for decoration.  I moved on....but kept thinking about those windows.

The next visit to the bazaar I went with several friends.  It was almost as if we were competing for who could walk away with the best deal or the most coveted item.  I was automatically drawn back to the gentleman's booth with the windows....  Good!  They're still there, making me believe they really were strictly for decoration.  But I was also drawn to the artwork on slate.  The colors were so warm, catchy, vibrant.  The sizes were so perfect for that small nook where something needs to hang but you don't have anything small enough to hang there.  So I began my arduous chore of choosing.....should I go with the one man/four camel caravan, or should I go with the oasis scene?  Oh, I really don't like being so conflicted!  In the end, the oasis scene came home with me!

While finishing up my purchase with the vendor, I struck up a conversation about the lovely window decorations that made his booth so inviting and appealing. 

"Oh, you like them?" he inquired. 
"Yes!" I said enthusiastically.  "Would you be willing to part with at least one of them?" 
To which he replied, "Well, they are for sale." 
I nearly died!!!

Meanwhile, there were some other shoppers in his booth, who apparently also admired his windows, but, like me had thought they were only for display.  Upon eaves dropping on my conversation in English with this very nice man, one of the other shoppers jumped in to the conversation in Tunisian dialect.  I had no idea what she was saying, but I did know, through her very animated gestures, that she was not happy with him and that she was talking about me as she ended her comment to him with "Americaine", spoken with disdain. 

The man looked at me and said, "She doesn't think I should sell Tunisian antiques to an American!" 
I looked at him wide-eyed, glanced at her, and said, "Well, how do you feel about that?"
He smiled coyly, and said, "I'd be happy to sell you whatever you wish to buy, AND I'll give you an excellent price just because you ARE an American."  To which the other shopper stormed out of his booth in a huff, but not before she cast me the evil eye! 

So, I left his booth with the window of my choice (but now wish I had bought both of them), and the funny thing about the whole ordeal is after turning every corner through the very large bazaar, I saw this lady.  She continued to give me the evil eye, and I continued to smile in my sweet American way, all the while holding very tightly to my window!!!

To the Evil Eye Lady:  I hope you have forgiven the vendor for selling me that window, but most of all I hope that you will be happy for me to have a lovely piece of Tunisian heritage in my home.  I do treasure it as my Open Window to all of my global adventures.

my very own piece of Tunisia and I still love it!

PS:  My apologies for my recent absence.  My mother-in-law passed away on 20 January, which also brought my deployed husband home on emergency leave for 2 weeks.  I vowed to spend every possible moment by his side while he was home.  He has now returned to his deployment duty.  We are all still grieving and adjusting to life apart as a typical military family.