Showing posts with label souk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label souk. Show all posts

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Double Take

Most of you that know me, know I really enjoyed our time in Morocco.  From the adventure of our rocky beginning, to working at the American Embassy, to traveling the twisting roads that led us to amazing destinations, to the shopping, and so much more.  I completely loved our time there.  I will admit, my favorite pastime was s.h.o.p.p.i.n.g.  And I'm not talking about conventional shopping (ie: clothing and shoes), I'm talking about unique decor; one of a kind, authentic pieces that can only be found in Morocco.  My quest for such items became a daily adventure, and I became quite good at it.  The "thrill of the hunt" not only included finding those special pieces, but also included the skill of bargaining the price to an agreed upon number that both myself and the shopkeeper were happy with.  And happy I am with each and every piece, as it makes our home a diary of our time abroad, weaving stories of every country we've lived, and is "proof" of every purchase victory.



But, I digress...


Some how, some way, Morocco finds me here in the States, or is it that I find Morocco?  In larger metropolitan areas I'm sure Morocco is quite prevalent, from home decor to cuisine.  But here in small, simple Columbia, South Carolina?  It just seems so unlikely, but there it is, staring me in the face almost every time I go into certain stores.

First of all, let's go back to the Rabat medina for a moment.  Now...for those of you who don't know, the "medina" is the old section of any Arab city in North Africa, and is also known as the "souk" in the Middle East.  It is usually located in an historic part of a city, and consists of centuries-old walls surrounding maze-like, narrow streets sectioned off into categories such as fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh meats, fresh seafood, spices, household items, clothing, shoes, and a variety of artisan crafts such as leather, metal works (brass, copper, silver), woodwork, jewelry, perfumes and potions, and various souvenirs.

The local population depends on the medina for supplying their everyday lives with necessities.  The expat/tourist population depends on it for supplying their need for unique experiences and trinkets to remember their time in the foreign land.


As you might imagine, every visit to the medina consists of numerous sensory collisions.  There's a plethora of different languages, including the occasional, but rare, English enticement, "Hello, my friend, come in to my shop!" but all are being spoken at decibels above the normal range.  Then there's the jostling of hundreds of other shoppers, bumping you from every direction.  Because, you see, most Arabs don't have an issue with bumping into someone, nor do they find it rude to continue on their hurried way without excusing themselves or checking that you're ok as you're being trampled!  Then there are the smells.....some sections are wonderful.  Walking through the spice section always left a feeling of wonder as all those fragrances mingled in to something that couldn't possibly be recreated; while other sections are completely and totally noxious.  Think rotting flesh, day old fish, body odors, animal waste, sewer, and moped exhaust all mixed into choking fumes that can't be avoided, and you can't walk fast enough to get through there without feeling like every brain cell in your head is slowly being exterminated.  But my point is, there's absolutely no way the odors of the medina could ever be replicated......nor would you even think to do so!



Imagine my surprise, and disgust, when I saw a candle in one of my favorite stores whose fragrance was named "Moroccan Market".  My first thought was "ewww, why would anyone ever want to make their home smell like that?"  But my curiosity got the best of me, and I snatched the lid off the candle and took a whiff.  Oh my!  IF ONLY the medina actually smelled like this, I'd probably still be there!  Trust me...there is not a Moroccan market in all of Morocco, nor anywhere in the Arab world, that smells even remotely like this.  Thank you, I'll take three! 


Did you know that argan oil is now found in more beauty products here in the States than ever before?  All the high end salons in my current location offer argan oil treatments, and items that you can purchase for yourself.  Even your run-of-the-mill Garnier Fructis carries a shampoo and conditioner with Moroccan Argan Oil added to the ingredients.  Yes, I bought some, but I think I'll stick with my own private stash that I brought here on my own. 


OK.  So I'm back home, and feeling confident with the area, and have begun a routine in a new city.  I miss my old friends, and the amazing things about my previous location (mainly the thrill of shopping), and BAM, there I am....staring at a piece of pottery that might as well have followed me straight from Sale Pottery (everyone's favorite pottery factory in Morocco)!  Out of curiosity I must check the price.  Oh.My.Gosh!  really!!!  At least they're on sale but who would be fool enough to pay that much.....and at a Tuesday Morning on top of that!?



It's as if anything Morocco searches me out... 

As I've written here, my love of doors is of almost unhealthy proportions.  Imagine my delight in knowing I've got the real thing when I saw these hanging at my local Pier One!  Screen printed on canvas "paintings" that cost almost as much (well, not really) as what I paid for my 8 foot, antique, carved solid wood,  REAL works of art!  I couldn't help but smile, and say "oh yeah.....I soooo did the right thing when I bought all those doors!"


Does this ever happen to you?  When you have returned from a lengthy stay in a particular place, do you find yourself drawn to things that come from that location? 

And now, if you'll excuse me, I think I'll go light my Moroccan Market scented candle and gaze at our beautiful Moroccan doors after I give myself an argan oil facial treatment.....right here in South Carolina!



Thursday, March 22, 2012

Spring Break

Spring Break is here for many of us.  Do you travel during the break, or do you prefer a stay-cation?  It's funny....my family and I generally travel during the spring break week when we're overseas, but when we're stateside we stay home.  Why is that!?  Especially when there's so much to see and do in the States.  I guess cost has something to do with it.

a village along the N9 Highway to Marrakech with a cool rock formation


Traveling overseas can be costly as well, but when you're paying for everything in the local currency (Monopoly money, as we call it), it doesn't seem to hurt as much......  I know that makes absolutely no sense, but it's true!

During the 3 years we were in Morocco, we travelled to some pretty amazing places during the week long school break.   The first year took us to Zagora, on the edge of the Sahara.  The very long and arduous drive took us through some stunning vistas, and provided wonderful photo opportunities, not to mention the experience of a completely different area of Morocco. We traveled with another family, carvanning along the roads, taking in the lovely scenery and enjoying each other's company!  They especially enjoyed my throwing handfuls of candy to unsuspecting children on the roadside as we drove through small villages.  Everyone came out of their homes to stand and wave at us as we passed through, so I decided to start throwing candy in return!  The joy in their eyes for such a small token gave us so much pleasure.  We ran out of candy long before we ran out of villages of children!

Day 1:  We drove from Rabat to Marrakech, a trip of about 3 hours.  On arrival, after checking into our hotel, and settling into our room we decided to go to explore the main square, the famous Jemaa el Fna, and the medina. 


Royal Mirage Hotel

The square was beginning to get crowded, as is usually the case for this time of day. 


Jemaa el Fna

During the daylight hours Jemaa el Fna is less crowded but with plenty of shoppers and tourists, but at night it comes alive with acrobatic performers, snake charmers, water sellers, fortune tellers, dentists (yes, they will pull your tooth right there in the middle of the square with an audience gathered around!), stalls and stalls of food vendors, and the most delicious fresh squeezed orange juice that you've ever tasted, drunk from a communal glass!  Here you can have your fill of typical Moroccan fare such as goat head, snails, tagine, cous cous, brochette, and kefta.  It's truly a case of sensory overload!

hundreds of separate food stalls


this one has tasty goat's head......mmmmmm.....I guess


snail soup?  once again...mmmmmm...


now this I can attest is THE best fresh squeezed orange juice ever, even from the communal glass

Once we made it through the madness of the square, we wandered into the medina with its many souks (shops).  Here you can find just about any souvenir or trinket you can think of, and the real sport of the purchase is the haggling of the price.  Some find this practice exhilarating, while others find it downright agonizing, but it's part of the experience so you have to give it a try!  Personally, I'm pretty good at it, and my husband leaves all the haggling up to me!  I purchased a beautiful saddle bag-type purse, decorated with old coins from Morocco and European countries for about 400 dirhams ($50).  An excellent price, considering the vendor started out at 1000 dirhams!



how could anyone ever choose from so many?



After having our fill of hawkers and shoulder to shoulder people, we decided to return to our hotel via a horse drawn carriage.  A nice way to end a lovely evening, and probably wise to get a good night's sleep before the next day's journey to our second destination of Ouarzazate.

carriage ride back to the hotel


Day 2:  We traveled over the snow capped High Atlas Mountains and through the Tizi n Tichka pass, along a breathtaking and white-knuckle 2-lane highway, heavily traveled by passenger cars, buses, tourist SUV 4x4's and huge trucks.  I'm so glad we stopped to look back at where we had come from!  Amazing!


snow-capped High Atlas Mountains


the long and winding road

Ouarzazate is a small town but is home to Atlas Film Studios, where Hollywood movies have been filmed for more than a century, including The Kingdom of Heaven, Black Hawk Down, Hidalgo and Gladiator, just to name a few.  Our overnight stay here was made complete with a tour of the local kasbah.  A kasbah is a fortified dwelling place for a whole family consisting of many generations, providing a safe haven for people and animals, and from the elements of weather.  The construction of the kasbahs in this region are made of mud mixed with chopped straw, dried in the sun, and built around huge support beams.  As long as the area gets little rain, these "bricks" will stay in tact for years.

Kasbah of Ouarzazate.  The bricks in the foreground are for anyone to use for simple repairs


Days 3-6:  The next day, we continued on our way, following the Draa River to our final destination of Zagora.  Once again, breathtaking vistas and curving, twisting roads were our companion.  Our stay in Zagora was fun-filled, beginning with a sunset camel trek through the beautiful local Palm Grove, a trek into the dunes on ATV's, and a stop at an amazing observatory in the desert away from all light pollution.  We were able to view Saturn and its rings and the full moon which seemed close enough to reach out and touch it.  You too can visit this observatory here.  Our stay in the Palais Asmaa was also quite relaxing and enjoyable, even with the camouflage toad. 


the road to Zagora

sunset camel trek


ATV's in the desert dunes

Sahara Sky Kasbah and Observatory


cool, military frog

We were given full VIP privileges (having a husband who speaks fluent Arabic is an advantage), enjoying our own private dining room, with our own staff of waiters who catered to our every need.


private dining room

Palais Asmaa courtyard view at  night

bougainvillea and pool

Days 6-7:  All too soon it was time for us to begin the journey home.  We left Zagora promising to return, but we never did.  It's a really long trip!  But I am so glad we had the experience.  We stopped in Ouarzazate for lunch, and then on to Marrakech for the night. 


storm over the oasis along the River Draa




a common sight in the rural areas.....women do all the hauling of fodder for
their livestock or wood for cooking

Our final evening of entertainment took us to Chez Ali, a cheesy tourist attraction showcasing all the different tribes of Morocco featuring their typical dress, dance and music.  A meal of roasted whole lamb is brought to the table for everyone to indulge, along with harrira (a wonderful, thick tomato-based soup), and Moroccan salad (cubed cucumbers, green peppers, onion, coriander and various spices).  After watching various dances and listening to all the different types of music, everyone gathers in the arena seating for the main attraction, fantasia!  Fantasias are displays of incredible horsemanship and are performed according to precise rules.  Riders gallop at full speed in the arena, and at a specified time, fire their very ornate weapons in the air.  The horsemen also perform impressive stunts on their horses, thrilling everyone in the audience with their amazing skills.  A one-time attendance should suffice any desire to hearing the trilling of the ghayta (a wooden double-reed instrument that makes a horrible sound), or further viewing of gyrating tribal dancers who insist on pulling unsuspecting visitors into their ranks, making them dance too!


"mishwi", or roasted lamb

poor guest made to dance

horsemen of the Fantasia




A great trip that has provided lasting memories. 

How do you like to celebrate Spring Break?



How about a camel trek to Timbuktu?  It only takes 52 days!